“No Kerosene”: Journey Two

21st – March – 20th April 2023

Page 1: Contents

  • Expressed on the web page as ‘pages’, elsewhere as ‘chapters’

Page 2: To Wien

  • “Feet first on the “Stairway to Heaven” – a ‘flying start’?
  • Köln & Pinocchio Re-Called
  • Vienna: Where is the Danube?

Page 3: To Romania

  • The Night Train heading East
  • Satellites, Coercive Control & Solitude: ’56, ’68, ’90…
  • The (Rail) Road to Recovery
  • Brașov

Page 4: București

  • The Lido Hotel
  • The Mineriad – crude repression
  • The Romanian – Australian Cement Deal
  • Hanul Manuc & the new vibrancy
  • Biserica Anglicană & Father Nevsky’s Art Tour

Page 5: Pleven

  • Military Cooperation through Dance
  • Russian ‘Liberation’ C19th Style
    • an exemplar of The Present
  • A Continuing Impact

Page 6: Sofia

  • The Dramatic Rocky Road
  • Lions & more Lions
  • The Continuing Presence of the ‘Liberators’ from the Past

Page 7: To Ankara

  • The curiosities of Border Crossings
    • The Lidl Midnight Shopper?
    • Changing – engines & on becoming a TV personality
  • Istanbul: A brief stroll
  • To Ankara & The Temptation of the Dogu Express

Page 8: Ankara: Part One

  • Ramadan
  • Food preferences
  • Ankara Kalesi
    • Restoration & Social Development for local inhabitants

Page 9: Ankara: Part Two

  • The Silent yet Reflective Hittite Lions
  • Adam Otu: ‘the object of so many strange superstitions
  • The Anchor Gift & Generosity of Spirit

Page: 10: Istanbul

  • Testi Kebab
  • Salih Dere: wise informant, friendly advisor & carpet expert
    • The Pudding Shop
  • The Old Architecture & Haliç Cafe
  • The Basilica Cistern & Suleiman – undeniably ‘The Magnificent’
  • ‘Dry Waste’ – a puzzle

Page 11: To Vidin & the Europa Bridge

  • Return to Sofia
    • Smoking Boxes & Wheel Tapping
  • To Vidin with ‘The Unfortunate Lady’
  • To Craiova
    • The Europa Bridge
    • Picking Daisies (almost)
  • Târgu Jiu: A fine & comfortable finish

Page 12: Brâncuși & to Deva & beyond

  • The Restored ‘Sculptural Ensemble’ of Constantin Brâncuși: A Lived landscape
  • A slow progress over high hills
    • Petroșani, mineriad & inevitable decay
  • The Delights of Deva
  • The Night Sleeper (and the dangers of late drinking)

Page 13: Vienna & on to Tarnowskie Góry

  • The Belvedere
    • Prince Eugene Francis of Savoy-Carignano
    • Klimt blockers
    • The North West Railway Station – details
  • Through Czechia, into Poland
  • Magda, Iacob & Żurek
  • The 1922 Memorial Stone; The Maciej Mine
  • A Dining Car to Prague – in the rain
    • Prague Central Station: memorial to independence
  • To Cheb & Nürnberg – in the rain

Page 14: Nürnberg

  • Lebkuchen
  • The unexpected Bright Lights
  • Where is The Centre?
    • Putin’s Pain
  • A White Rhino, the Renaissance & The Holy Roman Empire
  • Albrecht Dürer, Two Churches & fine artwork
    • St Sebald’s Snails
    • Hapsburg Complexities
    • ‘Margaretha mit dem Wurm’: An Astonishing Tale of Survival (almost)

Page 15: To Chatillon & beyond

  • A damp & dreary journey
  • Bourg en Bresse
    • The Splendours of the Brasserie
    • The Monastery of Brou and The Hapsburgs (Again)
  • Chatillon – a strolling interlude
  • The curious Curé of Ars
    • His Well Travelled Heart
    • ‘Mon Dieu : c’est incroyable’: French cuisine at its worst
  • Charolais-Brionnais region
    • Paray le Monial
      • A Visionary ‘heart carving’ (on her body) lady
  • To Paris, a café & home

Yes Sir! All Aboard!

This train is Bound for Glory, this train!

The 2nd of 3 Rail Journeys to partners, colleagues & friends across Europe.

Many of them became members of a ’No Kerosene’ What’sApp group & some of those messages are included in this report.

Introduction
Pathways Partnerships map 2021 copy

For over 30 years our EU funded project partnerships had intentionally focused on the peripheral regions of Europe – especially those that had previously been part of the ’Soviet Block’.

A Growing Realisation

The partnership programmes, grew from work shared between Mid Wales & North East Romania. The first programme included them & a partners in Lithuania. This interest in connecting 'peripheral' places continued with all that followed. A focus on partners from post-communist nations was also intentional. 
The 2023 ‘No Kerosene Tour' reflected this partnership history and was routed through lands & Nations that had historical (& always, painful) relationships with Russia.
Following the Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022 UK community groups in our locality provided support to partners in Romania & Poland who were assisting displaced Ukrainian families.

As the 'No Kerosene Journey' progressed through Journey One, so did reflection on places & historical events & their relationship to the unjustified invasion & war unleashed by the Russians upon Ukraine.

Journeys Two & Three included further reflections both that situation & occasionally other personal events related to places on the routes created.
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