PAGE 11: THE DELIGHTS OF DISRUPTION & A SMOOTH RETURN
Sunday October 20th
We had planned to travel to St Malo and take a ferry to the Isle of Jersey.
Due to cancellation of the ferry St Malo became the destination.
Into Pays de la Loire and on to Bretagne
Le Mans
The point where, in order to reach St Malo we were required to use a TGV, fast, smooth and boringly comfortable – apart from having a neighbour who had no idea how to handle her 2 young grandchildren ( a classic case: the ‘good’ girl (who was quietly effective at stirring-up…) & the ‘naughty’ boy) & thus created unnecessary disturbance.
New fast railways and new fast roads are aligned in ways that disregard the nature of the landscape through which they pass (and consequently provide almost no real sense of place)… trains can be put through tunnels (very expensive option, but possible) tunnelled roads (which would reduce noise pollution) would require even greater expense due to the poisonous fumes emitted by vehicles.
We glide along to Rennes
& rejoin an interesting traditional railway line.
The local stone is older and harder than the chalk & limestones of north central France.
St Malo
The End of the Line
… and the completion of the Continental section of our journey
St Malo:
from an aerial photo taken in very different weather conditions than occurred during our visit
- A commercial port, walled town (rebuilt after destruction during WW2) & fortress
- In mediaeval times a point of departure for pilgrims via the sea route (the ‘fast’ route) to Santiago de Compostela
- A tourist and shopping centre with some very fine restaurants
Breton galette:
One of the most popular varieties is a galette covered with grated Emmental cheese, a slice of ham, and an egg cooked on the galette… known as a galette complète.
The Grandmothers of Tours could do with a visit to St Malo – their food might then become edible… and possibly, enjoyable.
The ferry boat that would not sail (until tomorrow)… enjoying a ‘day of rest’ (apparently the company, owned by Brittany Ferries, is notorious for ‘cancellations’)
Stories suggest that St Malo was a Welsh missionary of the C6th. The marine links between the Amorican Peninsular, Cornwall, Wales & Ireland & NW Spain in which Malo and others participated stretch back to ancient times.
The whole town was severely damaged during a siege in 1944. Apparently a shell from German boat (assisting the defenders) hit the spire of the cathedral which collapsed, destroying much of the building. It was restored in the late 1970s.
In past times it was frequently the case that where a town was clearly facing overwhelming force & incapable of surviving attack then a surrender was negotiated (largely to limit damage & ensure the safety of all). It seems that such attitudes did not apply during much of the highly mechanised warfare of the C20th – and in places such as St Malo.
The rain arrived – and we became very wet…….
Fortunately there were spaces in a very fine restaurant
So as we dried out, we were served excellent food.
I had 3 ‘St Jacques’ (reference to Santiago de Compostela) with a small portion of risotto.
Accompanied by a Macon (Saint-Véran)
It was utterly wonderful – the best meal on the whole journey… so good that when the chef emerged I stood up and shook his hand.
So simple and without an ‘overfilling’ excess of food.
It was of a standard that would make the Grandmothers of Tour cry for shame at what they put before us.
A wonderful ending to our Continental Tour………
…as was wisely explained to me in the town square in Csíkszereda
‘Sometimes unexpected accidental discoveries are always intended to occur’
‘Trois St Jacques’
Now we were ready to face the tomorrow’s early start (and very late finish)…. and the undoubtedly grim prospect of a Brittany Ferry… not once but twice as, due to the cancellation we are on a ferry into Jersey and later one from Jersey to Poole in Dorset, England.
Monday 20th October
To Jersey & from Jersey
05.45 (CET) we walk to the ferry… only slight rain!
At the terminal there was confusion for one group who had not realised they could only carry a a comparatively small bag onto the boat.
The ferry sailed and the rain continued.
Coffe and Croisant
We arrived in Jersey
The map details are incorrect – it is not in the UK. Jersey is a self-governing under the authority of the Crown.
Leave ferry
We meet family, have breakfast, go to pub
Its raining all the time.
Sat in a classicly British pub…. But not in the United Kingdom.
It’s difficult to believe that we were in such a different context (St Malo) last night (leaving at 07.15 today)….. one hour by boat.
The voices around us are Northern English…. Probably retired here… I guess, from Yorkshire.
Later we board another ferry arriving in Poole after midnight.
Then … back on the rails
The rain eases so we go outside…. briefly
Then…. off to the ferry
Tuesday 21st October
arriving at Poole 00.19 (BST)
alongside another ferry
Yesterday merged into today. We began at 05.30 (CET) crossed to Jersey, arrived 07.40 (BST) spent (wet) time with family, boarded another ferry for 5 hour journey to UK…. Arrived 00.30 (01.30 CET).
We walked approx 2 kms to the Travelodge Hotel.
Drinks in the bar at 01.15, sleep, breakfast, cross road to railway station
Now, we leave the sea at Poole (08.30) on train to London
Bournemouth
Returns:
Poole harbour at night & a walk to hotel… the final journey from the sea, the New Forest’ (‘new’ in 1079, hunting ground created by King William of Normandy) then via the significant port of Southampton… mountains of containers & large Cruise Ships (to us they seem so similar, freight and people packed into metal containers).Landscape is similar throughout the journey
To London… and on, with lunch, via Crewe to Shrewsbury & home.
Southampton Port & Terminal
London: Wembley
Endings:
Our aim was to visit Iași for 3 days.
To travel by train as directly as possible. An extra night ‘stop-over’ allowed a walk around Budapest.
The return journey was planned via Jersey (one night) to visit family.
A reasonably direct line followed the 2 related blocks of hills…. The twisting Carpathians (that make travel through Romania difficult) & the more linear Alps (with their comparatively less complex routing patterns).
We were routed directly across central France… avoiding the boredom of the TGV trains with their indirect Parisian complexity.
All worked to schedule….Apart from disruption on the outward journey & a ferry cancellation – we left St. Malo France in early morning, lunched with family in Jersey, then ferry to U.K. arriving after midnight in Poole, Dorset.
The final journey in UK was very easy…. Crossing London at 11.00 was without crowds.
Our final train was a busy ‘Welsh Dining Car Express’… rather busy, shown passing Shrewsbury Abbey after leaving us at the station.
Home (River Severn in Newtown)
Reflections:
Too many images, incidents and stories to easily present on WhatsApp or other social media…. They all meld together, creating a curious distinctive multi-flavoured whole.
Some are distinctive simply as bizarre moments.
It’s election time in Romania and posters are found everywhere.
This image of a candidate for President struck us both….
Was it serious?
Apparently, yes….. though we rather felt that the person should be banned from the election due to ‘bad taste’ imagery.
We then discover that ‘Her political views and attitudes make Farage look like a kitten’
…. And she has been banned for some form of corruption.Still…. She produced an interesting form of kitsch poster (which nobody seems interested in removing)… note the use of a traditional haystack!
Meetings:
Trains (especially long distance trains) allow for detailed conversations.
Two people: one Romanian from Bacău, another from New York, living together in Copenhagen but making an introductory tour of relatives in Romania…. Prior to formalising their relationship…. Personal stories exchanged, geography & maps and academic focus
Two others: from Reggio & Denmark, living in Geneva having worked for the Red Cross in ‘hot spots’ across the globe…. Her analysis of UK attitudes and Brexit very perceptiveThe totally Hungarian train into Brasov…. We only have 3 words, they only slightly more English…. But as the night wore on that difficulty ceased to matter.
Cheesemakers, Beekeepers
Austria: The cook & waiter on the train both from Punjabi families living in Vienna….one from Moslem from Pakistan the other Sikh from Birmingham…. A conversations marked with caution due to political changes occurring in Austria.
And the cause of the journey:
Collegiality, Companionship, Friendship
‘Sometimes unexpected accidental discoveries are always intended to occur’
All now details of our story, lived out over 2 weeks in October 2024.
Inspirational Pathways 