PAGE 9: A LENGTHY 36 HOUR STROLL
Wednesday October 16th
The Route to Vienna
Initially to Brașov
Through the grain producing lands – it was and remains an important area of production
Into the hills… and the long climb
As it seems the door does not shut, the warning not to stand on the attached platform is appropriate!
At a steadily constant 60kms per hour the train loops it way up the slope we had recently travelled down
… and into the tunnel near the summit.
During the descent the bridge remains visible… a receding view as we descend to the main line at Siculeni..
This time there is no changing at Miercurea Ciuc/Csíkszereda
We leave the area and enter the long narrow valley of the Olt River that leads eventually to Brașov
There are points where unexpected ‘surprise’ occurs – and Brașov is one.
It has a ‘feel’ of being a more dynamic, energetic place than we’d become used to.
We had not felt that anywhere else was particularly ‘separate’ or different but we had spent several days in places where ‘tradition’ & ‘festival’had been the focus and where (apart from one Norwegian) we did not knowingly meet anyone who was not broadly ‘local’ in origin.
In Brașov there are many international tourists and having also been part of a territory that was historically held, constructed & culturally influenced by Germans and Hungarians, it has consequently a different style & energy from places we have visited.
Another factor that influences any place (and is true here) is ‘connection’… and Brașov is a major centre for the railway line being renovated & constructed across Romania. We will follow the route all the way to Vienna.
În Brașov the station is being completely re-shaped.
Our train arrives….
and we leave for Vienna……
The start of the journey was very slow – due to construction works.
The results (seen below) will soon produce a different experience (as has begun to occur after leaving Sighișoara)
We saw out the daylight at 19.14 in Romania
Thursday October 17th
Full daylight returned at 07.00 (CET) in Hungary
Borders have been reduced to simple lines (though this year: 2024, some are being ‘reasserted)
Wien: but only for 40 minutes. The impact of flooding has altered schedules & we quickly move platforms and board a train for Switzerland (including, en route, a small section of Germany)
The train is diverted away from the mainline which was severely damaged by Danube floods
The hills become closer and we stop at Salzburg.
Salzburg….. the Brașov of Austria?
Beautifully produced menu… examples of pages. It’s just as well because we seem to have accumulated a considerable delay.
Had a lovely lunch, then an unexpected rather serious but very carefully expressed conversation with our waiter ….. who is a Sikh, born in Birmingham…. In a few moments we’re covering the realities of present Austrian politics (not good… & we agreed, a different and more worrying situation than Brexit).
Another example of the ‘Oppportunities of Rail Travel’
The conversation carried on when I meet his colleague at the Bar. Both have families originally from the Punjab (Pakistan side, therefore Muslim & India, a Sikh). Together they demonstrated how differences can be recognised & held as valuable distinctions with rancour.
The journey, inevitably given the route into the High Alps, qualified as ‘picturesque’ – for a sight-seer.
We now are
‘Sight -seeing’…. not even in the open air… through a glass on a moving train…. not even requiring ‘rubber-necking’.
Engaged in a completely distanced experience from anything pertaining to the physical reality of what is being observed (briefly).
The train ran late – and therefore, unexpectedly, it was diverted through Lichtenstein. This was not obvious initially until our phones bleeped a message
Then we enjoyed a few minutes of stillness as the train stopped and rested in the centre of the independent principality.
We were required to change trains at Buchs but managed to arrive in Chur with time to walk to the hotel and then explore the centre of the town.
Inspirational Pathways 